Prepare the corn: Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the ears of corn and cook for 3-4 minutes, until the kernels turn a brighter, deeper yellow and smell sweetly vegetal. Drain and rinse under cold water until cool enough to handle. Using a sharp knife, cut the kernels from the cobs — you’ll hear a satisfying pop as they release, and the kernels should be plump and glossy.

Prepare the tomatoes: While the corn cools, halve or quarter the larger tomatoes, leaving smaller cherry tomatoes whole. As you cut, notice the vibrant reds and oranges of the flesh, and the fragrant, earthy aroma that rises from the cut surfaces. Place them in a large salad bowl.

Slice the onion: Add the finely sliced red onion to the bowl with the tomatoes. The thin, translucent rings should separate easily, and their sharp, pungent smell will mellow as they sit in the dressing.

Make the dressing: In a small jar, combine the olive oil, white wine vinegar or lemon juice, Dijon mustard, minced garlic, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper. Screw the lid on tightly and shake vigorously until the dressing emulsifies into a pale, creamy-looking mixture. The aroma should be bright and tangy with a hint of garlic.

Combine the salad: Pour the dressing over the tomatoes and onion, and toss gently with salad servers until everything is evenly coated. The tomatoes should glisten, and the onion rings should be tinged with the dressing’s colour.

Add the corn and avocado: Scatter the corn kernels and diced avocado over the dressed tomatoes. The avocado should be a soft, pale green, and the corn a sunny yellow. Toss once more very gently — you want to coat the avocado without mashing it.

Finish and serve: Crumble over the feta, if using, and scatter the torn basil and snipped chives on top. The feta should be creamy white against the colourful vegetables, and the herbs will add a fresh, peppery fragrance. Serve immediately, or let it rest for 10 minutes to allow the flavours to meld.