Prepare the squash. Heat your oven to 200°C (180°C fan) with a rack in the middle. Wash the delicata squash thoroughly under cold water and pat it dry. Trim off the very tip and the stem end, then halve each squash lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds and stringy fibres with a spoon. Slice each half crosswise into half-moons about 1.5 cm thick. You should have even crescents that will cook at the same rate.

Season and roast. Spread the squash crescents on a large baking tray in a single layer — use two trays if needed to avoid overcrowding, which would steam rather than caramelise them. Drizzle with the olive oil, sprinkle with the sea salt, black pepper, and smoked paprika if using. Toss gently with your hands to coat every piece. Roast for 20 minutes. The squash should be tender when pierced with a fork and the undersides should be deep golden brown with darker edges.

Make the glaze while the squash roasts. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the maple syrup, apple cider vinegar, and grated garlic. Stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth and bubbling gently. Let it simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the glaze thickens slightly and smells deeply of cooked maple and butter. The colour will turn a shade darker amber and the bubbles will become larger and slower. Remove from the heat and stir in the fresh sage.

Glaze the squash. Remove the tray from the oven. Pour the warm glaze evenly over the roasted squash crescents. Using a spatula, gently turn each piece over so the glaze coats both sides. The hot squash will absorb some of the glaze immediately, and the liquid will sizzle as it hits the tray.

Finish roasting. Return the tray to the oven and roast for a further 10 to 15 minutes. The squash will darken further at the edges, the glaze will become tacky and concentrated, and the kitchen will smell of caramelised butter and sage. When done, the crescents should be tender all the way through with no hard core at the centre, and the glaze should be sticky enough to cling to the squash rather than pool on the tray.

Rest and serve. Remove the tray from the oven and let the squash sit for 2 to 3 minutes. The glaze will set slightly as it cools. Transfer the squash to a serving plate, scrape any remaining glaze from the tray over the top, and finish with a pinch of flaky sea salt. Serve warm or at room temperature.