Make the spaetzle batter. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and nutmeg. In a separate jug, beat the eggs and milk together. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry, stirring with a wooden spoon until a thick, sticky batter forms. It should look shaggy and feel heavy, almost like a very thick pancake batter. Let it rest for 15 minutes.

Boil the spaetzle. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Using a spaetzle maker or a colander with large holes, press the batter through into the boiling water. You'll hear a gentle sizzle as it hits the water. The dumplings will float to the surface after 1-2 minutes; they'll look puffy and pale. Scoop them out with a slotted spoon into a colander and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking.

Pan-fry for colour. Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and the olive oil in a large, non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the cooked spaetzle and spread them in an even layer. Let them cook undisturbed for 2-3 minutes until the bottoms are golden brown and crisp. The kitchen will smell nutty and toasty. Flip and cook for another minute. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Sweat the onion. In the same pan, add the remaining 40g of butter and the finely diced onion. Cook over a medium-low heat for 4-5 minutes, until the onion is soft and translucent, not brown. You should see it release its moisture and become glossy.

Build the cheese sauce. Turn the heat to low. Add the grated Emmental and Gruyère to the pan with the onions, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. The cheese will melt into a thick, gooey sauce. If it seems too thick, add a tablespoon of the reserved pasta water. The sauce should look shiny and stretchy when you lift the spoon.

Combine and finish. Return the pan-fried spaetzle to the pan with the cheese sauce. Gently fold everything together until every dumpling is coated in the creamy, stringy mixture. The colour will be a uniform, pale gold. Taste and adjust the seasoning with black pepper.

Plate and present. To serve, spoon the cheesy spaetzle onto a warm plate or a wooden board. Create a slight mound in the centre. Garnish generously with the fresh chives and a final grating of nutmeg over the top. The contrast of the green chives against the golden cheese is your finishing touch.