Boil the eggs. Place the eggs in a single layer in a large frying pan or skillet and cover with cold water by about 2cm. Add the teaspoon of fine salt, set the pan over a high heat and bring to a rolling boil — you will hear the water rumbling and see large bubbles breaking the surface. Once boiling, cover, remove from the heat and leave for 10 minutes. Using a pan rather than a deep saucepan means the eggs sit in one layer and cook evenly.

Cool them quickly. While the eggs cook, fill a large bowl with cold water and a generous handful of ice cubes. Transfer the eggs straight into the ice bath with a slotted spoon and leave for 10 minutes. The shells should feel completely cold to the touch. This sudden drop in temperature stops the cooking immediately and prevents that grey-green ring forming around the yolk.

Peel and halve. Tap each egg gently on the worktop to crack the shell all over, then roll it between your palms. Peel under a trickle of cold running water if the shell is stubborn. Pat dry. Slice each egg in half lengthways with a sharp knife, wiping the blade between cuts so the yolks stay neat. The whites should look firm and glossy, the yolks bright yellow.

Separate the yolks. Gently squeeze the halves so the yolks pop out into a mixing bowl. Arrange the empty whites cut-side up on a serving plate and set aside. If any white tears, don't worry — you can press it back into shape later, or simply chop that one up and fold it into the filling.

Make the filling. Mash the yolks with a fork until no lumps remain — you want a fine, sandy texture. Add the mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, white wine vinegar, Greek yoghurt if using, olive oil, grated garlic if using, smoked paprika, salt and black pepper. Stir with a wooden spoon or spatula until the mixture is completely smooth and holds a soft peak. Taste it now: it should be creamy, a little tangy and gently smoky. Adjust the salt and vinegar to your liking.

Fold in the chives. Stir through the snipped chives, reserving a small pinch for the top. The filling will turn a pale green-flecked cream colour and smell faintly of fresh onion. If it looks stiff, loosen it with a teaspoon of cold water or an extra spoon of yoghurt.

Fill the whites. Spoon the mixture into a piping bag fitted with a star nozzle, or simply snip the corner off a zip-lock bag. Pipe a generous swirl into each egg white, mounding it slightly above the rim. If you prefer a rustic look, two small spoons work perfectly well — the filling should sit in soft, rounded peaks.

Finish and serve. Dust each egg with a small pinch of smoked paprika and scatter over the reserved chives. If you have cayenne, a tiny pinch over the top adds a warm tickle at the back of the throat. Serve straight away, or chill for up to an hour before bringing them to the table.