Make the batter. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and nutmeg. In a separate jug, beat the eggs, milk, and sparkling water. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and stir with a wooden spoon until you have a thick, sticky batter that falls slowly from the spoon. It should look like a very thick pancake batter — glossy and slightly elastic. If it feels too stiff, add another tablespoon of milk.

Rest the batter (this is crucial). Cover the bowl with a clean tea towel and let it sit at room temperature for 15 minutes. During this time, the gluten relaxes and the flour fully hydrates. You will notice the batter becomes smoother and a little more fluid. I make this at least once a week - it's become a family favourite, and this resting step is non-negotiable for the best texture.

Boil the spaetzle. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Using a spaetzle maker, a colander with large holes, or even a slotted spoon, press the batter through the holes directly into the boiling water. Work in batches to avoid overcrowding. The noodles will float to the surface within 30-45 seconds. When they do, let them boil for another 15 seconds, then scoop them out with a slotted spoon. They should look pale, plump, and slightly wrinkled. Transfer them to a colander and rinse briefly with cold water to stop the cooking. Toss with a drizzle of oil to prevent sticking.

Dry the spaetzle. Spread the boiled spaetzle out on a clean kitchen towel or a baking tray lined with paper towels. Let them dry for at least 5 minutes. This step is the key to achieving that deep, satisfying crispiness later. Wet noodles will steam, not sear. You will see the surface become matte and tacky.

Pan-fry to golden perfection. Place a large frying pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of butter and 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Once the butter has melted and is foaming, add the spaetzle in a single, even layer. Do not overcrowd the pan — work in batches if necessary. Let them cook undisturbed for 3-4 minutes. You will hear a gentle sizzle. Peek underneath: the underside should be deep golden brown and lacy. Flip the spaetzle with a spatula and cook for another 2-3 minutes, until the other side is equally crispy and golden. The smell will be nutty and buttery.

Add the final touches. If using cheese, sprinkle it over the hot spaetzle in the pan, then toss gently to melt. Remove from the heat immediately. Transfer to a warm serving platter. Sprinkle with the chopped chives and a generous pinch of flaky sea salt. Serve at once, while the edges are still audibly crunchy.