Heat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan). Tip the cherry tomatoes into a medium roasting dish or ovenproof frying pan. Scatter the whole garlic cloves among them, drizzle over 3 tbsp of the olive oil, and sprinkle with the oregano, chilli flakes and a good grind of black pepper. Toss gently with your hands so every tomato is glossy — they should look shiny, not swimming in oil.

Nestle the block of feta into the centre of the tomatoes. Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of oil over the top of the cheese and give it one more crack of pepper. The feta should sit proud of the tomatoes, not buried underneath them, so it can colour properly.

Slide the dish into the oven and roast for 30–35 minutes. You're looking for tomatoes that have split and slumped, with wrinkled skins and dark edges where they've caught, and feta that has turned pale gold at the corners. The smell filling your kitchen at this point is unmistakable — sweet, roasted tomato with a faint salty tang from the cheese.

About 12 minutes before the dish finishes, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and add the teaspoon of salt. Drop in the pasta and cook according to the packet instructions until al dente — it should still have a slight bite at the centre when you test a piece.

Just before draining, scoop out about 2 tbsp of the starchy pasta water and set it aside. This is the trick that keeps the sauce from turning claggy. Drain the pasta in a colander and give it a quick shake — you don't want it dripping wet.

Pull the roasting dish from the oven and set it on a heatproof surface. Using a fork, mash the softened feta and garlic cloves into the tomatoes. It should collapse into a creamy, coral-coloured sauce with visible tomato pieces still holding their shape. If it looks stiff, stir in a splash of the reserved pasta water.

Tip the drained pasta straight into the dish and toss everything together with tongs until every piece is coated. Add the lemon zest and most of the basil, torn roughly with your fingers, then toss once more. Taste and adjust the seasoning — feta is salty, so you may not need any extra salt at all.

Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and the remaining basil. If you're using pine nuts or breadcrumbs, scatter them over now for a bit of crunch. Serve straight from the dish, family-style, with forks and a stack of napkins.